Surf's up

This short article about the growing size of waves on the Oregon coast is a reminder of the amazing complexity and variability of our aquatic systems. We've observed coastal erosion at Bayshore, but lately, the sand has been piling up on the beach closest to the Shanty. Are our waves any bigger or smaller than before? It's impossible to say, based on simple observation. I guess that's why we have coastal engineers at OSU: to observe and measure these sorts of changes over time.